This is the fourth post of my Japan series. If you’re planning the trip, start with the planning hub; if you’re hungry, the food guide covers the sushi and Kaiseki we had here in Kyoto.
Kyoto is a no-miss in 关西 (Kansai). It has everything you’d want from an ancient Japanese capital: countless temples and shrines, 鸭川 (the Kamo River) running through the city, and old narrow streets that show what Japan looked like in the past. It’s a city where you can walk down the street in a full kimono and nobody will find it odd.
Where to stay
The common recommendation is to stay near 三条 (Sanjo) or 四条 (Shijo), for the shopping districts and the proximity to different attractions. I completely agree! We went just a little further: we booked a hotel across the river, near 祗园白川 (Gion Shirakawa). From there, we could walk a few minutes into the busy areas – but also retreat to a quiet room whenever we wanted to. For someone like me, that balance matters more than being in the exact center of everything.
白川 over 鸭川
Here’s a personal opinion: I like 白川 (the Shirakawa) better than 鸭川 (the Kamo River). 白川 is a small, shallow stream, but the stone paths and the plants along it make it feel like walking through an older century. It also connects to 花见小路 (Hanamikoji Street), which completes the view and the atmosphere.
Between the two runs a long stretch of Gion streets full of snacks and all sorts of local goods. If you don’t have time to go to Uji for matcha, you can easily find some here. That street leads to 八坂神社 (Yasaka Shrine), a huge shrine with a beautiful lantern area. Going south, you climb the hill to 二年坂 (Ninenzaka) and 三年坂 (Sannenzaka) – and 八坂塔 (the Yasaka Pagoda) standing over the rooftops is one of the most “Kyoto” sights there is. Continue further to 清水寺 (Kiyomizu-dera), and you’ll get a view over the whole city.
The touristy street that’s worth it
I admit that 先斗町通 (Pontocho Alley) is touristy – but it really does have good food, so don’t get driven away by the crowd. This is actually where I stumbled upon the affordable lunch Kaiseki I wrote about in the food guide, just by randomly walking down the street. Sometimes the touristy street pays off.
For the history lovers
If you’re interested, visit some of the temples, 二条城 (Nijo Castle), and the Kyoto Imperial Palace (京都御所) to learn about and experience the history. Kyoto rewards slow exploration – the more time you give it, the more it gives back.
Next and final stop of the series: Fujiyoshida, where I set a 4am alarm for a mountain – and the mountain actually showed up.
Kyoto: Where to Stay, What to Skip, and Why I Prefer 白川 Over 鸭川
This is the fourth post of my Japan series. If you’re planning the trip, start with the planning hub; if you’re hungry, the food guide covers the sushi and Kaiseki we had here in Kyoto.
Kyoto is a no-miss in 关西 (Kansai). It has everything you’d want from an ancient Japanese capital: countless temples and shrines, 鸭川 (the Kamo River) running through the city, and old narrow streets that show what Japan looked like in the past. It’s a city where you can walk down the street in a full kimono and nobody will find it odd.
Where to stay
The common recommendation is to stay near 三条 (Sanjo) or 四条 (Shijo), for the shopping districts and the proximity to different attractions. I completely agree! We went just a little further: we booked a hotel across the river, near 祗园白川 (Gion Shirakawa). From there, we could walk a few minutes into the busy areas – but also retreat to a quiet room whenever we wanted to. For someone like me, that balance matters more than being in the exact center of everything.
白川 over 鸭川
Here’s a personal opinion: I like 白川 (the Shirakawa) better than 鸭川 (the Kamo River). 白川 is a small, shallow stream, but the stone paths and the plants along it make it feel like walking through an older century. It also connects to 花见小路 (Hanamikoji Street), which completes the view and the atmosphere.
Between the two runs a long stretch of Gion streets full of snacks and all sorts of local goods. If you don’t have time to go to Uji for matcha, you can easily find some here. That street leads to 八坂神社 (Yasaka Shrine), a huge shrine with a beautiful lantern area. Going south, you climb the hill to 二年坂 (Ninenzaka) and 三年坂 (Sannenzaka) – and 八坂塔 (the Yasaka Pagoda) standing over the rooftops is one of the most “Kyoto” sights there is. Continue further to 清水寺 (Kiyomizu-dera), and you’ll get a view over the whole city.
The touristy street that’s worth it
I admit that 先斗町通 (Pontocho Alley) is touristy – but it really does have good food, so don’t get driven away by the crowd. This is actually where I stumbled upon the affordable lunch Kaiseki I wrote about in the food guide, just by randomly walking down the street. Sometimes the touristy street pays off.
For the history lovers
If you’re interested, visit some of the temples, 二条城 (Nijo Castle), and the Kyoto Imperial Palace (京都御所) to learn about and experience the history. Kyoto rewards slow exploration – the more time you give it, the more it gives back.
Next and final stop of the series: Fujiyoshida, where I set a 4am alarm for a mountain – and the mountain actually showed up.