München (Munich), the heart of Bayern (Bavaria), a gateway to countless tourist attractions, a canvas painted with beautiful traditional architecture, is my favorite city in the world. I had the chance to visit twice briefly before settling down for a longer stay, and let me tell you, Munich reveals its true beauty only when you give it time.

Where to Go and What to Do?

Altstadt

Munich may look expansive on the map, but its soul resides in the Altstadt – the Old Town. Picture it as a gemstone set in a ring; it’s almost round in shape. Whether you enter from Karlsplatz (Stachus), Sendlinger Tor, or Isartor, you cannot miss these landmarks:

Our journey begins at Karlsplatz, commonly known as Stachus (Karl wasn’t exactly a local favorite). We pass through Karlstor and stroll down Kaufingerstraße. Try not to get sidetracked by the tempting shops! Soon, you’ll spot a grand cathedral with twin “green onion heads” peeking behind the floral façade of Hirmer. That’s the Frauenkirche München (Münchner Dom), or Munich’s Notre Dame.

You might wonder why a Gothic church has onion domes, which usually belong to a different style of architecture. Well, it is all about timing and budget. Initially, the church couldn’t afford to build the towers. By the time they got around to it, Gothic was yesterday’s news, and Renaissance was the new trend. So, the towers got built with a modern twist – timing matters!

Inside the Frauenkirche, look for the Teufelstritt or “Devil’s Footstep” on the floor. The church also houses a crypt where Archbishops and some Wittelsbach family members rest.

Today, we are heading up the south tower. Make sure to check the opening hours here. After a winding staircase and an elevator ride, we’re greeted with a 360-degree view of Munich. Lucky for us, today’s weather is clear enough to see the Alps!

From Frauenkirche, it’s a short walk to Marienplatz, the city’s beating heart. The Gothic-style city hall features a Rathaus-Glockenspiel, a large mechanical clock that puts on a show around noon. If Frauenkirche feels too crowded, the city hall and its neighbor St. Peter Church offer alternative viewpoints.

Next, let’s make our way to Viktualienmarkt, an ancient farmers market. Here, you can pick up some fresh produce, cheese, or sausages. And if you’re in the mood, why not relax with a beer at a local beer garden?

Our last stop within the Altstadt is Odeonsplatz, home to Theatinerkirche, Feldherrnhalle, and Residenz. The Residenz, once the royal palace of the Wittelsbachs, now serves as a public museum. Its architecture is a blend of late Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassicism – think Palais Royal in Paris, but Bavarian.

Palaces

Germany has the most castles in the world. Munich, in particular, has a high concentration of castles and palaces. Munich’s long history and its time as the capital of the Kingdom of Bavaria explain the large number of castles and palaces located there. Today let’s keep on our journey in the City of Munich and discover some of the castles and palaces in town!

Residenz was the official palace for the previous royal family of Bavaria, the Wittelsbachs, while Schloss Nymphenburg functioned as their summer residence. In fact, the head of the Wittelsbach family still takes a wing of the palace as their home. The main highlight of Nymphenburg is its Baroque architecture and a French-style garden where you’ll often see swans and ducks gracing the lake.

Further south, you’ll find Schloss Fürstenried, an 18th-century hunting lodge commonly referred to as “Little Nymphenburg.” Over the years, it has served various roles, one of which was to act as a residence and treatment facility for Prince Otto. He was later King of Bavaria but was essentially confined to this palace due to his severe mental health issues.

Schloss Schleißheim, another Wittelsbach summer residence, lies to the north. Unlike Nymphenburg, it features an Italian-style garden.

For castle enthusiasts, don’t miss out on Schloss Blutenburg, Palais Ludwig Ferdinand, and Schloss Ismaning.

Museums

Munich is a haven for museum lovers. Aside from palace museums, these three are must-visits:

But, except for the palace museums, these three are the must!

1. BMW Museum: A must-visit for car enthusiasts, but even if you’re not one, you’ll find the evolution of cars through the ages fascinating!
2. Deutsches Museum: More than just a museum, it’s a treasure trove filled with intriguing exhibits on history, science, and technology.
3. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum: A captivating journey into Bavarian culture, history, and art awaits you here! 

Gardens and Parks

Munich is graced with numerous gardens and parks, but two stand out that you absolutely shouldn’t miss:

Englischer Garten: This English-style garden is one of the largest urban parks you’ll find anywhere – yes, even bigger than New York’s Central Park.

Don’t miss:

Eisbachwelle: A renowned surfing spot in the heart of the city

Monopteros: A Greek-style temple offering panoramic views

Olympiapark München: Far from being just an expansive green space, this multifaceted area encompasses a stadium, an aquarium, a variety of sports facilities, and even hosts an additional BMW museum (BMW Welt).

Other Noteworthy Spots

Hackerbrücke: Located near the central station, this bridge is a romantic spot perfect for sunset gazing.

Sauna Spots: Munich offers a variety of saunas to relax in, including Nordbad, Müller’sches Volksbad, and Phönixbad Ottobrunn.

Seasonal Attractions

Oktoberfest: Starting in mid-September and running through early October, this world-renowned festival is about more than just beer. It’s a full-fledged theme park with a variety of beverages, including wine and non-alcoholic options.

Weihnachtsmarkt: If you’re visiting Munich in winter, the Christmas Markets are a must-see. The crown jewel among them is located at Marienplatz, where you can indulge in festive decorations, culinary delights, and seasonal beverages. The market also spices things up with special themes in different locations, such as medieval and pink settings. Check online for the latest locations and schedules.

Day Trips from Munich

Going for a day trip departing from Munich, I’ve got you covered! But really hear me out: only when you have already explored this beautiful city. 

1. Bad Tölz: Situated just an hour away by train, this southern Bavarian town is a gem. The Isar River flows through it, much like Munich. Bad Tölz is renowned for its herbal spas, believed by locals to have therapeutic properties. What also caught my eye were the houses adorned with biblical paintings, a testament to the town’s strong Catholic heritage.
2. Schwangau: Just two hours by car and you’ll find yourself in the enchanting world envisioned by King Ludwig II. The iconic Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles are there to leave you spellbound. 
3. Starnberger See: a short distance from Munich, this lake provides a wide range of activities for every taste.
4. Tegernsee: Notable for its breathtaking lake views and a selection of lakeside saunas for relaxation.
5. Prien am Chiemsee: Home to Neues Schloss Herrenchiemsee, this island offers a perfect blend of palace architecture, scenic lake views, and authentic Bavarian village life.

My Personal Journey in München

If you’ve made it this far, Hooray! You’re about to dive into the heart of my Munich journey.

So, why München? I grew up amidst the steel jungles of China’s bustling cities, and let me tell you, the fast-paced life can wear you down. (Though, New York, you’re an exception, you’ve got your own magic.)

München, Germany’s third-largest city, is different. It’s spacious, less crowded, and steeped in history. It is a city, but to me it feels more like a village. The fact that it was largely spared during WWII means that much of its traditional architecture remains intact. Plus, the Alps are just a train ride away, and I’ve always felt a deep connection with mountains. They remind me of my own insignificance in the grand scheme of things, and I find that humbling. Its history, culture, architecture, and the proximity to the Alps make München my absolute favorite city, especially given its less hectic pace compared to other European cities.

My first visit to München was a whirlwind tour with Rachel. We were so focused on shopping and dining that I barely noticed the city’s landmarks. My second visit was for a US visa interview, and although we explored a bit more, the trip had a different purpose. It wasn’t until I secured an internship in München that I truly got to experience the city.

I never thought I’d land an internship in München in 2022. But when all the companies in France turned me down, I shifted my focus to Germany. I initially thought Berlin would be my destination, given its inclusivity and abundance of companies. To my surprise, however, I received an offer from München! Before relocating, I was apprehensive. My husband, a native of northern Germany, had often mentioned Bayern’s conservative nature. As an Asian, I feared encountering racism.

Upon arrival, my worries eased. The end of June and early July coincided with LGBT Pride, which added to my positive impressions of the city. During my stay, I explored places I’d never visited before. From historical churches to diverse restaurants, each experience enriched my love for München.

One sunny day, I visited Schloss Nymphenburg. I started at Hubertusbrunnen, the fountain that marks the beginning of the Nymphenburg space. The canal leading to the palace was straight, allowing for a clear view from start to finish. The area beside the canal was perfect for picnics and sports, and the large trees provided ample shade. Though I’m not a fan of French-style gardens or palaces (too homogeneous), the grand scale of Nymphenburg took my breath away.

I often shopped in the Altstadt, but one August day, I decided to explore more, so I visited the Frauenkirche. The lighting was perfect for viewing the Alps from the cathedral’s tower. The city’s traditional architecture and the proximity of the Alps made me feel even more connected to München.

My mission that day was to explore the churches where members of the Wittelsbach family, including King Ludwig II, were laid to rest. I’ve always been captivated by King Ludwig II and seized this opportunity to delve into the family’s history and unique burial customs. At St. Michael München, I saw King Ludwig II’s coffin in the crypt and learned about the Wittelsbach tradition of removing the hearts before burial. These hearts are separately interred at the Gnadenkapelle (Chapel of Grace) in Altötting, as it’s believed they hold the soul and should be placed in a sacred location.

Asamkirche was the final stop on my church tour, and it was a feast for the eyes. This compact yet intricately designed church is a masterclass in Rococo artistry. For those unfamiliar, Rococo is an art style characterized by elaborate ornamentation, asymmetrical designs, and a focus on light and color. It’s extravagant yet delicate, and Asamkirche embodies these qualities to the fullest. Even if you’re not religious but have an appreciation for art, this is the one church in München you simply must visit to experience the grandeur of Rococo.

In October 2022, I had the pleasure of attending Oktoberfest with my colleagues. We were fortunate to have reserved tables in the main tent, the epicenter of all Oktoberfest activities. Here’s what you should know: Oktoberfest is not just about beer, it’s a cultural phenomenon. The main tent is where you’ll find the heart of the festival – beer, of course, but also music, singing, and dancing on benches.

I opted for a Radler, a refreshing mix of beer and lemonade, as I’m aware of my low alcohol tolerance. For those who are not big on beer, fear not. There are also tents dedicated to wine and non-alcoholic beverages, making it a family-friendly affair. And if you’re wondering about the food, the classic dish to try is roasted chicken with potato salad – absolutely delicious!

The atmosphere is electric, and even for an introvert like me, the experience was exhilarating. The waitstaff, mostly strong women, manage to carry multiple one-liter beer mugs at once, serving tables of 10-12 people with ease.

If you’re planning to attend, I highly recommend donning traditional Bavarian attire. It not only shows respect for the local culture but also adds to the overall experience. Trust me, the atmosphere is so infectious, even the most introverted will find themselves singing and dancing along!

In winter, just before Christmas – since the Christmas Markets only open before Christmas Eve – my husband and I explored several of the Christmas Markets. We started with the largest one at Marienplatz, bustling with booths offering food, drinks, and holiday items. These markets are always popular, locals come for beer or hot wine, while tourists join in for the experience. The crowd stretched from Marienplatz halfway down Kaufingerstraße. If you’re keen on food or drinks, I recommend going during the day and returning in the evening for the ambiance.

The market near Sendlingertor was much smaller and less crowded. I found some charming clay houses at a booth, even if they were made in China. The pink Christmas market catered to the LGBT community, but it didn’t feel particularly different – just more festive with pink and purple lights. People seemed to be having an outdoor party. We also visited the market at the Residenz, which was my ideal: not too big, not too crowded. The layout was a square filled with booths, and some isolated ones in the middle. We enjoyed sausages with various flavors and even had hot wine. The cups were so cute that we asked the owner and bought them, although most people return them. The air was thick with the aroma of food, so don’t plan on eating elsewhere! For me, there’s nothing more magical than visiting a Christmas market on a snowy day, especially with someone I love.

I think all of those memories really made me a fan of this city. I had my frustrating and depressing days there, but in the end, the happiness I felt in that city always dominates whenever I look back.

Looking back on my time in München, it’s easy to see why I’ve fallen in love with this city. From its beautiful buildings to its lively culture, and even the tough moments, every experience has added to my deep connection with this place. Life has its highs and lows, but the good times I’ve had in München make it all worth it.