The Rhein Valley is full of small charming towns, and Bacharach is one of them. I first knew about it from the cover of the Lonely Planet Germany edition. I didn’t know much about the place, but if it’s good enough to represent the whole country on a book cover, surely it’s worth a visit, right?
Getting from Frankfurt to Bacharach takes a while, about two hours, with at least one transfer at Mainz Hbf. One more practical tip: don’t count on finding food in town, especially in winter, so bring some bread or snacks before you arrive.
A winter day in Bacharach was quiet, and I was more than happy to have the place mostly to myself. My only real goal was to reach the famous high point in the vineyards to photograph the town from above, though I had no idea how to actually get there. So I just started wandering, which I enjoy anyway. I never want to do exactly what every other tourist does. Before long, my eyes caught a yellow-red sign pointing toward a castle. Well, there’s clearly something up there, so why not follow it?
It turned out to be a narrow stairway, and after the winter snow, the walk was rough in my city boots. I had to grip the railing tight so I wouldn’t slide down the slippery stone steps. I was heading toward Castle Stahleck, and along the way I passed two towers: Sonnenturm and Hutturm, once part of the town’s old defenses. Just past them, I found myself at a high point where the shape of the town and the Rhein river finally came into view, with vineyards all around me. No surprise the town is known for its wine.
The grounds of Castle Stahleck are fantastic: from up there, every detail of the town is clear. After centuries of being destroyed and rebuilt, the castle now serves as a hostel. But here’s the catch: I still wasn’t where I wanted to be. Only then did I realize my actual destination was on another hill entirely.
I picked up the pace so I could make my train back to Frankfurt, which was a mistake. I slipped several times on the way down, and right before reaching the town I landed hard on my butt. The view, though, made me forget the pain for a moment: picture standing among colorful timbered houses with a stream running through town, and nothing but vineyards above the rooftops when you look up.
From an abandoned hotel nearby, I could tell this town was once quite prosperous and popular. After the fame faded, it settled into being a quiet little paradise for the locals. To climb the right hill, Google told me I first had to walk away from the town and then start the ascent. I may have missed a few local signs, but I got there fine.
Once on top, I understood why this scene ended up on the Lonely Planet cover. With the open view, I could easily pick out the castle, the Wernerkapelle, the old town, and the Rhein. My only wish was for better weather so I could also capture the other towns scattered along the river.
Just as I was wondering how to get back down, I spotted signs leading through the vineyards. This terrified me, because it meant a steep descent and I’d already fallen once. It was mostly stairs, actually, but my fear of heights kicked in hard. The whole way down, my brain and mouth kept switching between “so beautiful” and “so scary.” In summer I doubt it would have bothered me this much. Passing the Postenturm, yet another former defense tower, now just a landmark with a nice panorama, I was basically back in town. That also answered my earlier question: this was the simpler, faster way up to the high point all along.
After making it down, I rushed to catch my train. Overall, Bacharach is scenic and, to me, more or less worth the trip from Frankfurt. But with over four hours of travel round-trip, you’ll want to weigh whether it’s worth your day. Summer would surely be a better experience, especially if you combine it into a larger tour of Rheingau and the Rhein Valley.
Bacharach, Germany: Is This Rhein Valley Town Worth the Trip from Frankfurt?
The Rhein Valley is full of small charming towns, and Bacharach is one of them. I first knew about it from the cover of the Lonely Planet Germany edition. I didn’t know much about the place, but if it’s good enough to represent the whole country on a book cover, surely it’s worth a visit, right?
Getting from Frankfurt to Bacharach takes a while, about two hours, with at least one transfer at Mainz Hbf. One more practical tip: don’t count on finding food in town, especially in winter, so bring some bread or snacks before you arrive.
A winter day in Bacharach was quiet, and I was more than happy to have the place mostly to myself. My only real goal was to reach the famous high point in the vineyards to photograph the town from above, though I had no idea how to actually get there. So I just started wandering, which I enjoy anyway. I never want to do exactly what every other tourist does. Before long, my eyes caught a yellow-red sign pointing toward a castle. Well, there’s clearly something up there, so why not follow it?
It turned out to be a narrow stairway, and after the winter snow, the walk was rough in my city boots. I had to grip the railing tight so I wouldn’t slide down the slippery stone steps. I was heading toward Castle Stahleck, and along the way I passed two towers: Sonnenturm and Hutturm, once part of the town’s old defenses. Just past them, I found myself at a high point where the shape of the town and the Rhein river finally came into view, with vineyards all around me. No surprise the town is known for its wine.
The grounds of Castle Stahleck are fantastic: from up there, every detail of the town is clear. After centuries of being destroyed and rebuilt, the castle now serves as a hostel. But here’s the catch: I still wasn’t where I wanted to be. Only then did I realize my actual destination was on another hill entirely.
I picked up the pace so I could make my train back to Frankfurt, which was a mistake. I slipped several times on the way down, and right before reaching the town I landed hard on my butt. The view, though, made me forget the pain for a moment: picture standing among colorful timbered houses with a stream running through town, and nothing but vineyards above the rooftops when you look up.
From an abandoned hotel nearby, I could tell this town was once quite prosperous and popular. After the fame faded, it settled into being a quiet little paradise for the locals. To climb the right hill, Google told me I first had to walk away from the town and then start the ascent. I may have missed a few local signs, but I got there fine.
Once on top, I understood why this scene ended up on the Lonely Planet cover. With the open view, I could easily pick out the castle, the Wernerkapelle, the old town, and the Rhein. My only wish was for better weather so I could also capture the other towns scattered along the river.
Just as I was wondering how to get back down, I spotted signs leading through the vineyards. This terrified me, because it meant a steep descent and I’d already fallen once. It was mostly stairs, actually, but my fear of heights kicked in hard. The whole way down, my brain and mouth kept switching between “so beautiful” and “so scary.” In summer I doubt it would have bothered me this much. Passing the Postenturm, yet another former defense tower, now just a landmark with a nice panorama, I was basically back in town. That also answered my earlier question: this was the simpler, faster way up to the high point all along.
After making it down, I rushed to catch my train. Overall, Bacharach is scenic and, to me, more or less worth the trip from Frankfurt. But with over four hours of travel round-trip, you’ll want to weigh whether it’s worth your day. Summer would surely be a better experience, especially if you combine it into a larger tour of Rheingau and the Rhein Valley.